 |
The 1/8" light ply sides of
the engine box extending through F1 into F2. The top corner of each
side is notched to fit under the top of F2. |
 |
The light ply sides sticking
out in front of F1. On my kit this distance was 5 7/8". |
 |
This is the piece of light ply
(very light) that is supposed to be used for the bottom of the box.
On side is approximately 2-3 degrees off of square. This is the
"front" of the bottom plate which is supposed to fit under the firewall.
The back should be trimmed to fit up against F1 if you follow the
Aeroworks instruction. |
 |
This is how I intend to
construct the bottom of the engine mounting box. The instructions
call for simply butting the bottom up against F1 and not extending through
F1 to F2 as shown here. I just didn't like their suggested method so
I decided on this instead. |
 |
This is a picture of the
firewall before the top and bottom plates are installed. Notice the
2-3 degree offset. |
 |
Another view of the firewall
and sides extending through F1 to F2. |
 |
This view shows the bottom
plate installed, and the tri-stock to strengthen the joints. The
instructions call for using spruce tri-stock behind the firewall. |
 |
This is the top plate.
The instructions call for mounting this plate on top of the engine box
sides and then butting it up against F1. I mounted mine between the
sides and then extended it through F1, adding tri-stock behind F1 instead
of in front. I also extended the top plate to the firewall for extra
strength. This is one area you can build to suit. |
 |
Another view of the top plate.
Notice the firewall offset. This is probably closer to 3 degrees. |
 |
These are various thickness
spacers I used to mount the engine to the firewall. From top they
are 3/8", 1/4" and 1/8". I ended up using 3/8" and 1/8" (total 1/2")
on the left engine mount (as viewed from the front) and 3/8" on the right.
I slightly beveled the spacers on the left to eliminate some of the
offset. |